Behind the 10-step Korean skincare routine

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to wake up every day picture perfect, Instagram-ready with a flawless face? Have you ever wondered why Koreans have such amazing skin? Is it their genes, their diet or the fact that they take exceptionally good care of their skin? I looked into the 10-step Korean skincare routine that everyone on the internet is talking about to see what the hype is all about.

What is the 10-step Korean skincare regime?

“It may sound extensive, but most Korean women use an eight and 10-step skincare routine each and every day to help keep their skin looking healthy and beautiful”, Vicky Lee, Korean beauty blogger at Sorabelle.com tells Cosmopolitan. Although it sounds like a lot of work, as it is more time consuming than your average skincare routine, the results are well worth the effort. 

Step number one is all about cleaning your face. When you wake up in the morning, not only is splashing your face with water refreshing and will help to wake you up, but it removes any dirt and impurities that have been lingering on your face since the night before.

Instead of simply washing your face with water before bed, especially if you wear make-up, step number one can be divided into the first two steps as outlined below.

Step one: an oil-based cleanser

This is to remove any oil-based make-up and impurities. Even for those of us with oily skin, cleansing your face with oil removes pollutants, stubborn SPF and sebum.

Step two: a water-based cleanser

Use a water-based foamy cleanser to remove sweat and dirt. You’ll be surprised to see the amount of dirt that still remains after the first cleanse. Make sure to use a water-based cleanser with a low pH. If your skin feels too tight after you clean it, that probably means that your cleanser has a pH that’s too high which can lead to breakouts. 

Step three: exfoliator

After cleaning your face, twice a week you need to exfoliate to remove any dead skin cells that are clogging your pores. This step is best done at night. Clogged pores can lead to more breakouts and can inhibit the absorption of ingredients that you apply to your face, so exfoliation is essential. 

Step four: apply toner

Toner balances your skin’s pH levels and helps to absorb the next products in line to apply. You might think that toner is another product to wipe more gunk off, but in Korean culture, it’s full of botanical ingredients that are all about regulating your skin’s pH and softening your skin.

Step five: essence

Essence is a mix between a toner and a serum and hydrates your skin. It also helps with cell turnover, this is simply the replacing of old skin cells with new younger cells.

Step six: ampoule/serum

Ampoules are very similar to serum but with a thicker texture and a higher number of active ingredients. Vlogger of The Beauty Breakdown explains in her video that they’re more or less the same thing. Although I’m sure some skincare gurus would disagree.

This step is just another opportunity to dab some extra goodness onto your skin, but if you’re overwhelmed, it’s not a big deal to give this step a miss. However, if you’re looking to have that glowing effect that the Koreans call “chok chok”, you shouldn’t be skipping over this step. 

Serums, on the other hand, are concentrated formulas with an extensive amount of active ingredients that target specific skin concerns like dehydration, age spots or wrinkles.

Step seven: time for your sheet mask 

Sheet masks can be found almost anywhere now, and unlike facemasks of the old, they’re thankfully much easier to put on and take off. You’ll have to leave this on for about 15-20 minutes, so it’s not ideal to add to your morning skincare routine. However, after a long day or to unwind before bed, pampering yourself with a cool, juicy sheet mask is ideal. 

Don’t know what sheet mask to purchase? The best ones are the ones that stay wet all the way through the 20 minutes. For a guide about the best sheet masks to buy, check out The Daily Dot.

Step eight: eye cream

This is more of a preventative measure against the signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes. However, if you don’t have any wrinkles just yet, be careful not to apply too much. The skin around your eyes is delicate and thin, so it’s a good idea to use your ring finger to apply the cream around the eye area.

Step nine: moisturise

In the traditional Korean 10-step routine, this layer is called the occlusive layer, which is like putting a lid on all the previous layers of moisture. A thin layer of moisture is all you need, so no need for any thick creams here. Vlogger Joan Kim talks about some of the best facial creams for moisture and hydration on her YouTube channel. 

Step 10: sun protection

Sunscreen isn’t just for the beach or to pack into your holiday handbag. Particularly in countries that receive a lot of sun, sunscreen should be worn on a daily basis. It’s important to purchase a sunscreen with all-round protection from UVA and UVB rays, as some creams on the market only offer UVB protection. It’s also recommended to use a sunscreen with a high sun protection factor (SPF) of 30+ as this protects you from 97% of UVB rays.

The sun’s rays cause skin damage and accelerate ageing and the presence of age spots, not to mention that without sunscreen you’re putting yourself at a greater risk of developing skin cancer. UVA rays can even penetrate glass! Check out our blog on sun protection to learn more about the sun and your skin. 

Step 10 for your night-time routine: sleeping masks 

When the sun has set, there’s no need for the sunscreen before bed, so step ten for your night-time skincare regime can include using a face mask instead. Most repair work is done at night while you’re sleeping and face masks work while your body is resting, so leaving one on overnight can aid the repair process. 

Whether you strictly follow these rules or not, remember that the secret to great skin isn’t all about following a strict skincare regime. It’s also about hydration, getting a sufficient amount of sleep and following a healthy and nutritious diet. Drinking your recommended two to three litres of water a day will help get you that dewy glow. Keeping a water-based mist spray in your bag with you can help too, preventing your face from getting dehydrated throughout the day. 

Korean women value good sleep, with some aiming to be in bed for 10 pm. They also think of food as medicine, so if blemishes show up, they’ll adjust their diet to help their complexion to heal.

Is this skincare regime really worth it? Vicky Lee tells Cosmopolitan “I’ve found that this process has provided me with the most hydrated, healthy skin I could ever have hoped to achieve.” If this is coming from a Korean beauty expert, then maybe we should listen up. 

Have you tried the Korean skincare routine? Let us know if it has worked for you in the comments below!